Photo: Miranda Bennett Studio
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A few years ago when I was first urged by readers to look into the lack of sustainable and ethical fashion in inclusive sizing, the field was bleak. I actually resorted to including links to sustainable brands that offered items in XL. Yeah, I know.
“A limited number of brands offer ethical and sustainable clothing, giving all consumers (and especially the plus consumer) only a handful of options, making an already small pool even smaller for women intending to shop ethically and eco-consciously,” says Candice Huffine, a plus-size model and founder of the size-inclusive athletic brand DAY/WON.
“We recently ran a Kickstarter and had many requests for larger sizes,” Laura Moffat, co-founder and director of marketing for the androgynous Brooklyn brand Kirrin Finch, told me in 2016. At the time, they went up to size 16. “The demand is there, but it requires a whole new pattern and new fit models. So if a brand is not solely focused on the plus-size market, it is hard to justify the additional development cost.”
But things have changed (some)! Not only has the ethical and sustainable fashion scene exploded in the past three years, so has awareness of how underserved the plus-sized market is. “We are moving into a time in fashion where sustainability is becoming a driving factor for what women of all sizes choose to shop for,” says Huffine. “All women want to be their best selves, stay healthy, shop thoughtfully, and buy things that they love. This is true whether you’re a size 32 or 2.”
After all, the average American woman is a size 16/18, and this segment of the fashion industry is growing much faster than the “regular” retail market. Kirrin Finch made good on Moffat’s promise, and now offers styles in sizes up to 24, and a half-dozen brands have popped up that will manufacture your size-22 yoga leggings or 3X organic cotton tunic on demand in the U.S. under excellent working conditions.
These brands deserve your dollars because creating plus-size fashion that is also sustainable — while not an insurmountable mountain — is no lark.
Racked detailed the challenges facing plus-sized brands (check it out — it’s a great read). And that is for brands that are conventional. Many sustainable brands are already barely carving out profit margins because of their emphasis on high-quality textiles, craftsmanship, and paying a fair wage. Doing 2X and-up clothing (and doing it well) adds on another layer of challenges.
I wanted to detail them here for you so that you can:
A. understand why a covetable small brand might seem to be taking their sweet time creating something for you, and…
B. be a more effective consumer activist when asking them for inclusive sizing.
1. Plus-size women can be hesitant to invest in pricier clothing.
When Beth Ditto launched her ethically produced plus-sized line in 2016, many in her target demographic reacted with dismay at the prices, saying they couldn’t see themselves spending so much. (The line has since been discontinued.) According to a 2019 report, women who are in the plus-size range of clothing on average have lower incomes and spend less on fashion.
It’s hard enough to get any fashion consumer at all to pay more for ethically-made clothing. What we tell her is to “buy less and buy better” or “invest in fewer items that are higher quality” and “only buy things that you’ll wear at least 30 times.” In an ideal world, you would. But what if you’re still being bombarded by (and absorbing) society’s message that you should be actively trying to lose weight? Perhaps you’re not ready to “come out” as being permanently your current size. Or, more practically, your weight is actively fluctuating and you don’t know if you’ll be able to wear something 30 times before you have to redo your whole wardrobe yet again.
“I think there is some truth to it,” says Mayya Cherepova, plus-size designer, print artist, and Sustainable Fashion Systems professor at Parsons. “A lot of plus-size girls have thought of losing weight…and you fluctuate a lot. So you’re going to be throwing [clothing] out more, you’re going to be buying more, which means you will be buying cheap clothes.” But she quickly adds, “I think it is changing.”
She points to Universal Standard, which, though they don’t talk about their manufacturing ethics or where anything is made, does use quality fabrics like merino wool and Pima cotton, and offers customers the ability to exchange their purchases for another size within a year if they size up or down during that time. That makes investing in something nice a little more palatable. Whether a small fashion brand could have such a generous return policy? Maybe not. Generous return policies are expensive.
“It’s this constant thinking that every curvy woman is in a “stopover” body on her way to a size 2, that keeps her fashion fast, materials synthetic and footprint for the planet highly damaging,” Huffine laments. Hopefully, as we move into a new age of self-acceptance, this will fall away. “Now more than ever, plus women are not only accepting of their born-this-way shape, but are actually quite proud,” Huffine says.
2. You gotta be good at grading up.
If a brand wants to expand their sizing, it’s more than a matter of adding inches. It involves bringing in fit models and tweaking all the designs.
“I’m sorry. If you have a beautiful size-4 Chinese model, and then you grade up for me, you’re not going to get clothes that fit me,” Cherepova says. “Every bulge you can think about on a human body with curves gets accentuated when you are larger. That variety is so much more drastic in plus-size, so yeah, making patterns is hard.”
Eileen Fisher, which has been heavily investing in becoming an entirely sustainable fashion brand over the past five or so years, has carried plus sizes in its classic styles for twenty years. It represents about 10% of their business. “We offer the same collection for all sizes, but have a different fit process for each range,” says Tracy Breslin, Director of Brand Projects. “Our team of technical designers and a dedicated merchandiser work with a plus-size fit model to refine the fit. In many cases, the revisions are about reducing volume. For example, we use set-in sleeves where the original design might have had dolman sleeves, or we add sleeves to sleeveless pieces. We take into consideration how the plus customer would want to wear the piece differently (perhaps fewer layers or a flattering v-neck). Our fit model is critical to the process. She is candid about what’s working and what needs to shift. We listen to her experience, and our technical designers work out the mechanics on how to make it happen.”
The zero-waste designer Daniel Silverstein, whose ZWD line goes up to XL and does made-to-measure pieces for clients of all sizes, agrees that there is a dearth in plus-size expertise. “Most designers are simply taught a certain way of doing things that the industry accepts as standard,” he says. “Though there are some cost differentials in producing plus sizes such as lower yield and higher material costs that keep ‘plus’ as its own category, I think the biggest problem is that it is not a standard part of education from schools like FIT, where I went. So it might be less a matter of people wanting to design in a larger variety of sizes, and more an issue of designers’ awareness or knowledge. It’s something we need to be thinking of at the educational level to make true industry reform.”
It also would help brands sell more if they showed their clothing on plus-size models (obviously), so you could be more confident that it will look good. But even Eileen Fisher, a large brand, doesn’t photograph most of its range on plus-size models. “We would love to have more plus images – it’s a subject that is discussed frequently within our creative center,” Breslin says. “Our sample line comes in one size – getting additional sized samples for photography can be a complicated undertaking that can involve teams in many factories, in many countries.”
3. Sustainable fabric costs more.
Fact: sustainable fabrics cost more than cheap polyester. And when you have to buy more of it and pay tariffs to import it into the U.S. to your ethical NYC factory? Those prices add up. But inclusive sizing advocates are tired of hearing that. Cherepova calls it, “a lame excuse.” After all, XXS ladies don’t get a fabric discount, so why are we pretending like we can charge more for XXL?
Still, for an emerging brand that is bootstrapping (not a huge brand that is just disinterested) these are hard decisions to make. “The more exclusive (unfortunate, but true for now) and higher cost of eco-friendly fabrics create a tricky scenario to navigate, albeit not at all impossible,” Huffine says.
It seems that the best way to get into more inclusive sizing as a brand is not to dip a toe in and then go, “Welp, it didn’t sell!” but to make the bold decision to go all in, with sizing up to 2X at least, high-quality fit, photographs of your product on plus-size models and inclusive and enthusiastic marketing to tell the world that you have all sizes. If you have on-demand manufacturing in the U.S., which decreases both waste and the risk that you won’t sell through all the sizes, that can also help.
Where to Get Plus Size Sustainable and Ethical Clothing
If you’re ready to give your body the love and quality it deserves, I’ve rounded up some ethical designers and sustainable retailers doing 2XL/20 and up. (If you have more, please comment below!)
The great thing about Made Trade is that you can shop from multiple plus-sized ethical and sustainable clothing brands in one place. Made Trade is a curated online shop with a wide selection of products that are eco-conscious, fair trade, vegan, and/or made in the USA. On each product page, you can find out a lot about the brand’s values and ethical practices, materials used, etc., so you can be an informed consumer (without spending a bunch of time researching). They have a curated collection of plus size apparel up to 6XL as well as plus size intimates up to 2XL. Read more about why we love Made Trade here!
alder offers inclusive sizing, female-focused design, sustainable and ethical production, and a playful brand that starkly contrasts with the performance-driven, hard-core athletic brands that currently dominate the outdoor space. They use eco-friendly fabrics like TENCEL and recycled nylon, with a little bit of spandex for stretch. Everything is made ethically in transparency in two factories in Canada and Indonesia where all employees work in safe environments and receive fair pay and benefits.
This year, Christy Dawn has launched an extended sizing collection comprising of thirteen fresh dress styles. The sizes go up to 3X and prices range from $198 to $298. The brand’s entire collection is created in their Los Angeles factory using sustainable deadstock fabrics.
The activewear brand that took the world by storm with its free leggings a few years ago is one of the most inclusive sustainable brands out there. Made in sizes up to 6XL (+ maternity!), the athletic and yoga wear from Girlfriend Collective is made of upcycled water bottles and nylon fishing nets, is OEKO-TEX certified, and the Vietnamese cut-and-sew workers are paid above the local minimum wage.
This heritage brand makes jeans that are meant to be treasured for the long term, pioneering a technology called Water<Less that uses less water in the notoriously thirsty denim manufacturing process, ensuring their products are free of toxic finishes, and supporting more sustainable cotton farming. Their sizes go up to 26.
You probably already know that REI carries a ton of adventure apparel and gear, but they also carry a lot of pieces for everyday and workwear. They have really ramped up their inclusive sizing over the past couple of years and are committed to continuing to do so. Every brand that REI carries meets a minimum standard of ethical and sustainable operation. Although not every single item is made out of recycled and/or natural materials, they have a really wide variety of apparel to choose from that’s not only made in a conscious way, but also really high quality. Or, you can shop from their Used section, which is perhaps the most sustainable (and affordable!) option. Sizes go up to 3X/24/40. For more about REI’s sustainability initiatives in depth, read this.
Founded by plus-size model Candice Huffine, this sexy athletic apparel brand is all made on-demand to cut down on waste, in upstate New York. Many styles, which go up to 5X, are made with recycled, locally-sourced materials and waterless dyeing technology.
prAna is committed to sustainability and community. Its design team uses cutting-edge, eco-friendly materials and practices to deliver high quality without harming the planet. Its fabrics are bluesign and fair trade certified, and it uses organic cotton, recycled wool and responsible down.
Not only does Eileen Fisher collect and upcycle, recycle, or resell the clothing that loyal customers bring back, plus use sustainable fibers like organic cotton and TENCEL, recycled fibers and responsible wool and manufacture in the U.S., this brand offers over 200 classic styles in sizes up to 3X.
Mata Traders works with cooperatives in India and Nepal to make sure all their artisans earn living wages. They have a wide selection of jewelry and affordable dresses in solid colors and fun patterns, made out of mostly cotton (some conventional and some organic).
Find androgynous, quality, made-in-NYC button-downs and jackets in sizes up to 24 at this direct-to-consumer brand. Most of their pieces are made with organic and/or conventional cotton.
A direct-to-consumer company, this brand makes everything in sizes up to 4X or 30 on a made-to-order basis in the United States, so that there isn’t overproduction or waste.
Handmade to order in LA in sizes up to 4x for its organic cotton tees and XL for separates and dresses, this slow fashion brand strives for zero waste. And the store also carries other ethical, female-owned brands.
Mara Hoffman has become a pioneer in the sustainable fashion movement, flipping her materials to sustainable versions, and then sizing many of her sophisticated styles up to 3X.
After falling in love with sustainability and nature-inspired clothing, but unable to find much that would work with her body and style, Camille started The Perennial Closet to bring beautiful, flowy, plant-dyed garments to women of all shapes and sizes. Her pieces are made-to-order from natural materials like linen and silk. Sizes go up to 5XL.
Based in Brooklyn, NY, Wray’s pieces are made ethically in Hong Kong and at a fair-trade, family-owned operation in India. Inspired by the fine arts, their clothing evokes a sense of playfulness through hand-painted prints and unique colors on natural fabrics like cotton. Sizes go up to 4XL.
Esby carefully sources all-natural fabrics from around the world, working closely with factory partners throughout the production process and creating their pieces in small batches to reduce waste. Everything is dyed with non-toxic dyes and sewn together ethically and transparently in NY and CA. Sizes go up to 4XL.
Mayes NYC designs sustainable, high-end clothing for curvy women. The brand blends bold, colorful patterns and classic silhouettes to create designs with a distinctive personality for women sized 14-28. Each piece is thoughtfully designed using sustainably sourced materials, such as recycled polyester, and produced exclusively in New York City by women-owned companies.
With sizes up to 3XL, Power of My People carries pieces that are great for a capsule collection or a traditional office environment. They use OEKO-TEX certified fabrics like linen, TENCEL, and cotton which are sourced responsibly and sewn together ethically in Canada. Plus, their shipping is carbon offset.
A speech therapist by day, designer Aliya Wanek founded her brand with a mix of American classic and Japanese aesthetics. With sizes up to 2XL, everything is ethically made in the Bay Area out of natural materials.
Tomboyx size and gender-inclusive bras and underwear are made mostly of OEKO-TEX certified organic cotton in women-owned facilities that the team visits regularly in order to ensure they’re being treated fairly. They have a ton of different colors, designs, and styles, so there is something for everyone. They even have leakproof period underwear for lighter days and removable insert bras which accommodate inserts for post-mastectomy and transitioning.
Miranda Bennett Studio designs its garments, which go up to size 32, around fabric remnants to minimize waste. Anything that cannot be utilized is recycled by a local textile recycler. Its flowy dresses, tops, and bottoms are cut and sewn in-house and made to be comfortable and stylish year-round. The brand uses non-toxic, plant-based natural dyes in its Austin-based facility.
This made-to-order brand makes clothing in 23 sizes and three height options, as well as custom fits. It uses all-natural materials and azo-free plant-based dyes for its versatile handmade garments, which are sent in reusable cotton bags. All materials are locally sourced near its artisan facility in Jaipur, Rajasthan.
The post 23 Brands Making Ethical and Sustainable Plus-Size Fashion in 2023 appeared first on Ecocult.